As easily as the hydrofoil flies across the sea, and as quickly as you can rent a bicycle from one of the eager sellers at the port, you can find yourself zipping along Favignana’s flat and friendly roads. Shaped like a butterfly, with a western and eastern wing divided by the ridge of the castle-topped Monte Santa Caterina, Favignana is the largest of the three Egadi Islands. A short distance across the sea, its sister islands of Levanzo and Marettimo complete the trifecta of one of Sicily’s most treasured archipelagos.
This is a place of battles and legends that has inspired great storytellers from Homer, whose fabled Ithaca was long rumored to be based on the most distant island, on up to contemporary director Christopher Nolan, who filmed his upcoming adaptation of The Odyssey on Favignana last spring. In 2026, the islands will make their Hollywood debut, but this will be just another layer of the island’s stratified history — the allure of which has made me a regular traveler in the Port of Trapani. Like a book I can flip through again and again, I’m always discovering something new on the Egadi Islands, but I think what I like most about them is how free I feel to explore every last corner — no car necessary.
Unlike the rest of Sicily, which is difficult (but not impossible) to get around by public transportation, on the Egadi Islands you are set free to roam by bike, on foot or by boat, jumping into new-to-you shades of blue and moving between wild landscapes and chic aperitivo bars with sunset views.
Favignana: the butterfly island
After first popping into the port-side bar for a caffè al pistachio, the island’s signature breakfast beverage, get a bike and start your journey from town. Go clockwise to visit the strikingly blue Cala Rossa and the quarry-carved cove Bue Marino, a site that was once used to offload the island’s tufa stone. You will see quarries like these all over the eastern side of the island, but only one has been transformed into a walkable botanical garden: Il Giardino dell’Impossible (The Garden of the Impossible). If you prefer sandy beaches, keep riding until you reach the small shore of Cala Azzurra or the longer restaurant-lined stretch of Lido Burrone.
Continuing your journey through a long tunnel, you’ll emerge in the wild west of Favignana, where a few resorts and restaurants cater to visitors on their way to Cala Rotonda, which has a pebbly shore and a picturesque rock arch. Come golden hour, you will want to return to this side of the island for an aperitivo at , where daybeds and loungers are arranged fashionably across a sheep field for guests awaiting sunset as they sip natural wine and enjoy live music in the summer.
Remote hideaways like are perfect for private escapes, but there’s nothing like staying in the main town, where you will be within walking distance to a main strip of delicious restaurants like . I prefer staying close to the port to manage day trips to other islands, as well as excursions with , with whom I explored Favignana’s protected reefs and hidden grottoes. The dive center also offers snorkeling for non-divers and runs trips around the islands to sites bearing the remnants of ancient battles and lost Roman merchandise.
Levanzo: hidden histories
It may be the smallest of the islands, but Levanzo has surprising historical depths. Before you go, visit the museum at the on Favignana. The old fishery now hosts a spacious archaeology museum where you can see the battering rams recovered from an ancient naval battle that took place just off the shore of Levanzo in 241 B.C.E. As you pull into the port, try to imagine the 500 ships that once faced off in these waters as Romans went head-to-head with the Carthaginians.
Have your tickets pre-booked to the island’s even more ancient wonder, the cave paintings of . Only discovered in 1949, the artwork inside the cave has been carbon-dated to be over 10,000 years old. The privately-owned cave is located at the bottom of a steep slope, and although I took the hour-long coast-hugging trail around the western side of the island, you can also arrange a transfer by boat or jeep to save time. After marveling at the primitive drawings and etchings of the cave, make your way to one of the most beautiful coves in the whole archipelago. Cala Minnola is located in a small sheltered bay with shallow waters that are so clear, you can see straight through to the luscious posidonia fields billowing beneath the surface, giving the cala its gorgeous mottled look.
Marettimo: remote blues
Unlike Favignana and Levanzo, which were once attached to the Sicilian mainland by a large savannah that is now underwater, Marettimo is a true island. The geological black sheep of the family has a dark karst landscape and deep calas best explored by a boat tour with companies like . You’ll circumnavigate the island and will be free to jump ship and swim in the cobalt blue waters of Cala Bianca and pop into sea caves like Grotta del Cammello, where there is a small pebble beach with a stunning natural skylight.
The main town of Marettimo is tiny and there’s not a lot of room to stretch out, but there are a few restaurants and shops, as well as the Museo del Mare, which houses a treasure trove of maritime artifacts. You will have the best view on the terrace of Caffè Tramontana of Punta Troia, the island’s most iconic silhouette. This crescent-shaped promontory is topped with a castle that chronicles many chapters of the island's history, reflecting Sicilian history, from its identity as a medieval Arab watchtower to an 18th-century Bourbon prison.
Amid all these histories and legends, time seems to slow down when you’re exploring the Egadi Islands. It’s a destination where every moment feels distinct, whether you find yourself bathing in cerulean waters, exploring quarries and grottos, or savoring fresh seafood as you people-watch near the port. The natural beauty is resplendent, the historical marvels are subtle but plentiful, and the thrill of the ride will keep you coming back to make the rounds.
