Editor's note: The Inspired Stays series highlights hotels we love around Italy. Each property is independently reviewed by an Italy Magazine writer, who is generally hosted on a complimentary basis. Our contributors do not accept compensation or gifts in exchange for specific types of coverage. We only showcase properties we would genuinely recommend overall.
Why we love it
A medieval castle on a vast estate in the Tuscan countryside, Castello di Vicarello was lovingly restored by its owners, a family with charmingly eclectic taste. There’s nothing corporate or cookie cutter about it — just hospitality in the truest sense of the term.
What to expect
This is an intimate boutique hotel set in a 12th-century castle in the wild countryside of the Maremma. Though there are only 11 rooms, there’s so much to do on the property that if you’re only staying for a couple of nights, you won’t want to leave. There are two pools, verdant lawns and gardens (including a vegetable patch), massages, cooking classes, wine tastings, truffle hunting, hiking trails, complimentary e-bikes and a vintage Fiat 500 and 600 available to rent for excursions. The owners’ friendly dog, Uva, wanders freely around the property, adding to the homey atmosphere.
Background
Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi Berti bought the abandoned castle in 1979 as their family home and spent decades restoring it before opening it up as a hotel in 2003. They decorated it with an eclectic mix of furniture and rugs collected on their travels, including beautifully carved wooden furnishings from Bali, where they lived in the ‘80s. There are lounges with inviting velvet sofas and bookcases filled with books, a spectacular swimming pool lined with Grecian marble and art and antiques everywhere you look.
Location, location, location
To reach Castello di Vicarello, you must drive 1.5 kilometers (just under a mile) along a dirt road surrounded by forests and vineyards. There’s not much going on in the little villages surrounding the property, but should you want to explore, you can reach Montalcino in 45 minutes. In about an hour, you can be on the Argentario Coast, in the scenic Val d’Orcia, or in Siena.
Where you’ll sleep
Each of the 11 suites is completely unique. I stayed in the Suite Giardino, which has a lofted bedroom set above the living area with a leather sofa and armchairs, a wooden coffee table stacked with books and magazines, an Illy espresso machine, minibar and bluetooth-enabled speakers. The Suite Sprone has beautiful hand-carved furnishings from Indonesia, while the Suite Mezzatorre is nestled within the castle’s tower and has a fireplace, custom designed rugs, and a copper bathtub. Rooms lack TVs in order to encourage guests to unplug and unwind in the peaceful natural setting.
Dining & drinks
Everything revolves around the open kitchen, where the chef might be preparing something or teaching cooking classes. The cuisine follows a kilometer zero approach, with vegetables grown in the garden or sourced from the surrounding area. I visited in November, when porcini mushrooms and truffles were in season, which was a true delight. There are honesty bars by the pool and in the lounge, so guests can help themselves, but staff are also on hand to assist. Castello di Vicarello produces its own wines, which I had a chance to try during a wine tasting guided by the affable sommelier Stefano.
Service notes
Two of Carlo and Aurora’s three sons (Brando and Corso) manage the property, so it’s truly a family affair, but all the staff members I interacted with were genuinely welcoming and made me feel at home.
Spa time
The family is working on building a proper spa with a wet area, but for now massages and other treatments are available in a wooden hut near the pool. There’s also a spa suite with a private sauna and wooden hot tub in a secluded part of the property, which is especially popular with honeymooners.
Family perks
The property tends to attract couples and families with pre-teens or teenagers rather than those with young children. Families who want more space can book the Villa La Vedetta, a two-story villa with two suites, a living room, rooftop terrace, a private pool and gardens with a grill.
You should know...
The property closes in the winter, from late November through March. Summers are ideal for swimming and outdoor dining, but spring and fall also have their charms. Some activities, like truffle hunting, are seasonal.
Accessibility
- Some stairs are required.
- Because of the historic nature of the castle and the extensive grounds, guests with serious mobility issues will likely have trouble getting around.
Features & amenities
- Countryside setting
- Restaurant
- Bar
- Free WiFi
- Pool
- Free parking
- Garden
- Family friendly
- Pets welcome
Contacts
Castello di Vicarello
Località Vicarello 1, Poggi del Sasso Cinigiano
Tel. +39 0564990718
